At the Edge of the World: Stephen’s Journey to Antarctica

This summer, Altitude member Stephen Woodward began preparing for the trip of a lifetime. He reached out to us as he planned an ambitious journey spanning South Africa, Antarctica, and back. His main concern? Facing a high-altitude flight over Antarctica, well above 10,000 feet, in a non-pressurized plane, and sitting for several hours in extreme conditions.

What followed was nothing short of extraordinary, and we’ve shared the details of his African and Antarctic adventure below.

Stephen’s journey south began far from the ice.

Before Antarctica, before the sleds and whiteouts, he found himself moving through Africa. Not on foot, but in cars and open-air safari vehicles. Not exactly the walking-heavy start one might expect from a South Pole expedition.

“So far not much walking,” Stephen wrote, “although I did ask about a walking tour.”

The answer? Sure, walking was fine. Walking with lions and leopards, however, was politely declined.

Sleep was already becoming a factor. Operating on just three to four hours a night, day after day, he described running almost entirely on adrenaline, a preview of the physiological strain that would define the expedition ahead.

“You should start a new program,” he joked, “to help people understand the challenges they face when operating on maybe 3–4 hours sleep per day for days on end.”

Despite the fatigue, the experience was extraordinary. In under eight hours, Stephen and his group spotted the entire Big Five — an exceptionally rare day on safari.

Over just two and a half days, Stephen completed five safaris and saw all of the Big Five before the third was even finished. One day alone included close encounters with hippos, a crossing zebra herd, two male lions resting after a kill, and an extended leopard sighting — a remarkable concentration of wildlife in a short window of time.

On another day, he encountered a massive herd of nearly 200 Cape buffalo, followed by a brief but unforgettable cheetah sighting — a fleeting glimpse, a quiet search, and the realization it had been there all along.

He also joined a walking safari that included climbing a termite mound, examining a rare foam frog nest, and then witnessing an unforgettable scene: multiple elephant families gathered in a morning mud bath across the water, lingering until they slowly moved on.

After a few travel disruptions, the African safari chapter quietly closed, leaving him tired, fulfilled, and ready for what came next.

Stephen then arrived at Victoria Falls International Airport, and immediately discovered that borders matter, at least to cell phone companies.

Zimbabwe, it turned out, wasn’t on Bell’s roaming list. No service. No updates. Nothing to do, but wait for hotel Wi-Fi. When it finally connected, his phone lit up with a message:

Welcome to Zambia.

Technically correct, with Zambia sitting just on the opposite side of the river outside of Stephen’s lodge.

With an hour to spare, he joined a sunset river cruise. Cloud cover muted the light, and wildlife sightings were subtle — a few crocodiles gliding past, eyes just breaking the surface.

The following day began early. A 6 a.m. drive brought sightings of giraffes, impala, and several elephants, before the true highlight of the day.

Later that morning, Stephen boarded a flight over Victoria Falls — an experience he described as out of this world. It was peak dry season, with less than half the usual water volume flowing. The reduced mist allowed the plane to descend to just 500 feet, revealing exposed channels where water would normally thunder — silent, stark, and unforgettable.

Afterward, he walked along nearly half the length of the falls, tracing the edge of one of the world’s most powerful landscapes at its quietest. A short afternoon rest followed before an evening drive that became an intimate trio — Stephen and two guides, after the other guests split off.

Wildlife sightings returned in force: giraffes, numerous elephants, and back on the resort property, a massive bull elephant standing guard as their vehicle passed. They stopped just fifteen feet away and waited in silence — a long, unmoving moment shared between human and elephant. “That was great,” Stephen wrote.

Sunday unfolded slowly at first, then all at once. After a quiet stretch, they rounded a corner into herds of zebras and giraffes, and a dense gathering of elephants — the kind of scene that defines a safari. They stopped, watched, and without ceremony, coffee and fresh muffins appeared. For thirty minutes, they stood still, observing, sipping, breathing.

Stephen later called it his second-best day, and after breakfast back at the resort, it was time to move on.

Stephen was en route from Victoria Falls to Cape Town when the update came through, his plans had changed. Due to incoming weather expected over the next three to four days, the decision was made to move the Antarctica flight up to the next day.

The flight itself would take five and a half hours. On paper, that meant arriving at 12:30 a.m. In reality, Antarctica operates on GMT, so midnight suddenly became 10:30 p.m.

“Oh, the joys of time change.” Stephen remarked.

He had been hoping for two early nights of recovery and sleep. A chance to reset, before the biggest journey of his life. Unfortunately, that hope evaporated.

“I will start the most important trip of my life in an exhausted state! Oh sh*t!”

With that, the tone of the trip had began to shift. The African wildlife, the warmth of the savanna, the comfort and amenities, all of it faded into the background. The real expedition was about to begin.

Stephen arrived in Antarctica in the early morning, followed by a second flight to Dixie’s Camp, where the group faced a critical decision: attempt the South Pole immediately and risk being turned back by weather, or wait and hope for a brief window. They chose to wait — and late that night, the weather cleared just enough.

Exhausted, Stephen slept deeply during the delay, then departed with the group, reaching the South Pole at 2:30 a.m. in full daylight. In temperatures near –28°C, he spent an hour at the ceremonial marker before flying on to Whichaway Camp, adding hours more travel and pushing sleep to a minimum.

Whichaway offered the first real recovery — food, rest, and a demanding walk across the ice — followed by an uninterrupted eleven-hour sleep. From there, days settled into a steady rhythm of movement and recovery.

An early departure led to a flight, a snowcat ride, and a long walk across the ice, ending with an unforgettable encounter among Emperor penguins. Later, the group explored a newly discovered ice cave, a moment Stephen struggled to describe:

“Beautiful doesn’t even come close.”

The journey had demanded everything — and it still wasn’t over.

After Antarctica, Stephen returned to Africa, where the pace shifted but the moments remained iconic. Mornings opened with clear views of Table Mountain, followed by visits to Boulders Beach to see African penguins — a striking contrast to the towering Emperor penguins of Antarctica.

He explored Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens for its sweeping mountain views, took a helicopter flight along the coastline with a dramatic resort landing, and visited the Zeitz MOCAA Museum, gaining perspective on apartheid history and wishing for more time to absorb it all.

Food became part of the experience: a nine-course tasting menu at PIER, an indulgent lobster dinner at Burger & Lobster, and steak at Nelson’s Eye, where Stephen even invited his driver to join — an offer warmly declined but appreciated.

Even the transitions felt cinematic, moving through the city by car and air. Reflecting on the journey, Stephen summed it up simply:

“This is a bucket-list trip. Every moment, every sight, every taste, every unexpected twist… was worth it.”

On his final full day, Stephen traveled to False Bay for a shark dive with Apex Shark Expeditions. While great white sightings have declined, Bronze Whaler sharks still patrol the waters. After passing Seal Island, he entered the cage for a 25-minute dive as sharks surged in from below, ramming the cage and sending it rocking — an adrenaline-filled experience that felt over almost instantly.

From there, the day escalated. A helicopter flight carried him to Blue Bay Lodge & Resort, where a dramatic landing marked the final flourish of the journey. He was welcomed by the owner and chefs before enjoying oysters, wine, and an open-fire beach lunch featuring freshly caught fish and clams.

Stephen’s journey shows that the world’s most extraordinary experiences often lie just beyond the edge of comfort. From tracking the Big Five in Africa to standing at the South Pole, from helicopter landings over rugged coastlines to shark-filled waters, every moment was a testament to curiosity, courage, and the rewards of saying yes to the unknown.

Even as this adventure concluded, Stephen’s eyes were already onto the next: cruises up the Norwegian coast, expeditions across Australia, and future trips in the Galapagos and the climb to Machu Picchu. For him, the world is a playground of endless possibilities, and the next bucket-list adventure is always within reach.